Some recipes, including Olneys, tend towards the mean, using just one teaspoon to 1. Ive gone with the more generous quantities suggested by the Provence Cookery School recipe. Anchovies and other fish Elizabeth Davids tapenade. Just in case you thought there wasnt enough salt in the recipe, anchovies are also a must, though I think Conrans six fillets excessive this shouldnt be a dip that tastes primarily of fish. On that basis, Im also going to exclude Davids tuna a common addition, according to Larousse Gastronomique, but one which completely changes the character of the dish, muting the punchy flavours of the other ingredients to create a mellow fish paste. Herbs and garlic Margot Hendersons tapenade. Henderson and Torode put flat leaf parsley in their tapenades which, although often used in southern French cooking, doesnt taste as satisfyingly sun baked as Conran and Patricia Wells thyme, with its nostalgic whiff of garrigues roasting in the summer heat. Hendersons oregano, meanwhile, is too reminiscent of pizzas for my liking Provence may once have stretched into modern day Italy, but these days pasta is considered pretty exotic, in my experience. Garlic is, according to the Provence Cookery School, an optional extra. I think it brings a welcome heat, but dont overdo it similarly to anchovies, it has a tendency to take over, making it the dominant flavour in Conrans tapenade. Extras. Surprisingly, the same goes for the Cookery Schools lemon zest though juice adds a welcome acidity to the tapenade, the zest makes things too fresh and citrussy, when they ought to be dark and sophisticated. Conrans Dijon mustard, though a common addition, isnt to my taste either it muddies the Mediterranean flavours, while Torode and Olneys brandy just tastes bizarre. It may make it into the Larousse entry on the subject, but I prefer to keep the alcohol as an accompaniment as an ingredient, it supplies an oddly medicinal note. Method and texture Richard Olneys tapenade. Though the tapenade is traditionally made in a pestle and mortar, as Olney recommends, I think you get equally good results using the pulse function on a food processor, though the process is rather less satisfying for your inner peasant. Henderson does neither, however, preferring to roughly chop her ingredients to make something more akin to an olive salsa than a traditional tapenade, on the grounds its good to have some texture and not just a paste. Her version works well spread on thick toasts, as she suggests, but is less practical as a dip for breadsticks, or for drizzling over salads of ripe, red tomatoes. Im not sold on Olneys super fine variety, which is pushed through a sieve after pounding, either a certain rusticity suits tapenade. Peasant or not, you can afford to be generous with the oil the soft, fruity flavour rounds out all those savoury notes beautifully, as well as loosening the consistency. Serve with toasted rounds of stale baguette though British baguettes, unlike their French counterparts, dont obligingly desiccate between lunch and dinner, so you might have to plan ahead, breadsticks or crudits pour les minceurs, and, most importantly, a large, cold drink. How to make the perfect tapenade Felicity Cloakes perfect tapenade. Makes 1 smallish bowl a little goes a long way2. Juice of lemon. Remove the stones from the olives with a pitter or a sharp knife. Put in a food processor with the capers, anchovies, garlic and thyme, and whizz to a rough puree. Squeeze in the lemon juice and, with the motor still running, add the oil. Alternatively, pound the garlic, anchovies, capers and thyme together in a pestle and mortar until smooth, followed by the olives, leaving these slightly more chunky, then gradually add the oil and lemon juice, pounding between pours. Taste, and add pepper and more lemon juice if necessary.